By Public Transportation

Prague's public transportation network is one of the few sound Communist-era legacies and is still remarkably affordable. In central Prague, metro (subway) stations abound. Trams and buses offer a cheap sightseeing experience but also require a strong stomach for jostling with fellow passengers in close quarters.

Tickets & Passes -- For single-use tickets, there are two choices. Tickets for 8Kc (30¢) allow travel for a maximum of 15 minutes on a bus or tram, without transfers, or for a trip of no more than four stations on the metro. This usually suffices for most visitors looking to move between two sights in the city's old districts. The ticket for 12Kc (40¢) allows for unlimited travel, including transfers, on all forms of municipal transport for 60 minutes during peak periods.

A 1-day pass good for unlimited rides is 70Kc ($2.50), a 3-day pass 200Kc ($7.15), a 7-day pass 250Kc ($8.90), and a 15-day pass 280Kc ($10). The City Council is considering a hike in the fees.

You can buy tickets from yellow coin-operated machines in metro stations or at most newsstands marked TABÁK or TRAFIKA. Hold onto your validated ticket throughout your ride -- you'll need to show it if a plainclothes ticket collector (be sure to check for his or her badge) asks you. If you're caught without a valid ticket, you'll be asked, and not so kindly, to pay a fine on the spot while all the locals look on, shaking their heads in disgust. The fine is 400Kc ($14) on trams and the metro, double that on buses.

By Metro -- Metro trains operate daily from 5am to midnight and run every 2 to 6 minutes. On the three lettered lines (A, B, and C, color-coded green, yellow, and red, respectively), the most convenient central stations are Mustek, at the foot of Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Sq.); Staromestská, for Old Town Square and Charles Bridge; and Malostranská, serving Malá Strana and the Castle District.

By Electric Tram & Bus -- The 24 electric tram (streetcar) lines run practically everywhere, and there's always another tram with the same number traveling back. You never have to hail trams; they make every stop. The most popular trams, nos. 22 and 23 (aka the "tourist trams" and the "pickpocket express"), run past top sights like the National Theater and Prague Castle. Regular bus and tram service stops at midnight, after which selected routes run reduced schedules, usually only once per hour. Schedules are posted at stops. If you miss a night connection, expect a long wait for the next.

Buses tend to be used only outside the older districts of Prague and have 3-digit numbers.

Getting the Most from Your Tram Fare--If you're taking tram no. 22 or 23 to Prague Castle from Národní or anywhere farther from the castle, I recommend you get a 12Kc (40¢) ticket. It is valid for 60 minutes of tram ride on weekdays (up to 90 min. after 8pm and on weekends). Use the 8Kc (30¢) ticket only for a short travel distance (one or two tram stops) since it is only good for 15 minutes and you may get caught beyond this limit.

Both the buses and tram lines begin their morning runs around 4:30am.

By Funicular -- The funicular (cog railway) makes the scenic run up and down Petrín Hill every 10 minutes (15 in winter season) daily from 9:15am to 8:45pm with an intermediate stop at the Nebozízek restaurant halfway down the hill, which overlooks the city. It requires the 12Kc (40¢) ticket or any of the same transport passes as other modes of public transport and departs from a small house in the park at Újezd in Malá Strana.

By Taxi

I have one word for you: Beware.

You can hail taxis in the streets or in front of train stations, large hotels, and popular attractions, but many drivers simply gouge visitors. In the late 1990s, the city canceled price regulations, but instead of creating price competition, it started a turf war between cabbies vying for the best taxi stands. The best fare you can hope for is 17Kc (60¢) per kilometer, but three times that isn't rare. Rates usually aren't posted outside on the taxi's door but on the dashboard -- once you're inside it's a bit late to haggle. Try to get the driver to agree to a price and write it down before you get in. Better yet, go by foot or public transport.

If you must go by taxi, call reputable companies with English-speaking dispatchers: AAA Taxi (tel. 14014 or 221-102-211; www.aaataxi.cz); ProfiTaxi (tel. 14035); or SEDOP (tel. 271-726-666). Demand a receipt for the fare before you start, as it'll keep them a little more honest.

By Bike

Though there are no special bike lanes in the city center, and smooth streets are unheard of, Prague is a particularly fun city to bike when the crowds are thin. Vehicular traffic is limited in the city center, where small, winding streets seem especially suited to two-wheeled vehicles. Surprisingly, few people take advantage of this opportunity; cyclists are largely limited to the few foreigners who have imported their own bikes. The city's ubiquitous cobblestones make mountain bikes the natural choice. Check with your hotel about a rental, or try Cyklocentrum at Karlovo nám. 27-29 (tel. 222-232-285).